Saturday, February 5, 2011

THE ROYAL - Playa del Carmen

We were high school sweethearts. We were nineteen years old when we got married. By age 20 we were parents. We were one of those couples that no one ever believed would make it because we were so young. We celebrated our thirty-eighth wedding anniversary in November and are still madly in love.

A big reason that our marriage lasted was a conscious decision on our part to take one week a year just for us. (In the early years maybe it was just a weekend) Each year we looked forward to rekindling what can get lost among the shuffle of three kids, jobs, PTA, soccer practice, dance lessens, college tuition and a home.

Around 1990 we discovered the All-Inclusive vacation and fell in love! It was like adult camp. It was the antithesis of what we were escaping. The biggest decision we had to make each day was “Hon, should we sit at the pool today or the beach?”.

We started out at a small resort in Juan Dolio in the Dominican Republic. After quite a few years there we decided to expand our horizons a bit. We tried other islands in between but always found ourselves wanting to go back to the DR, so we did. We tried Puerto Plata, then La Romana, then we found the jewel of the island, Punta Cana. We stayed in five different resorts over the next few years. We thought we had found our paradise. The place we would vacation forever.
So when I was diagnosed with Celiac Disease I completely panicked. I thought, “How can I go to an All-Inclusive ever again? They won't understand my diet needs! I'll be sick all the time!”. I was extremely depressed and very angry that this disease would cause such a lifestyle change for my husband and I.

I started researching furiously. I discovered that the flour staple in Mexico was made of corn. It was an “Ah Ha” moment as Oprah would say! “Change of plans this year hon! We're going to Mexico!” So we booked a really nice AI resort in Riviera Maya, The Barcelo Palace. The resort was beautiful, the beach was great, but the language barrier was horrific. I had to manage my diet alone. I ate mostly off the salad bar. A few of their restaurants tried to be helpful, but noone really knew what Celiac Disease was so I was given plain meat and rice for dinners. It was the first vacation that I actually lost weight!

I wasn't ready to give up my vacations. A friend told me about THE ROYAL in Playa del Carmen, Mexico. I did some research on the internet about the hotel and it looked incredible. THE ROYAL is part of the Real Resorts properties. It is an adult only, luxury gourmet all-inclusive resort . THE ROYAL is located just 45 minutes from Cancun Airport. It's location is away from the hussle bussle of the city and from all reviews safety was not an issue in this area. I sent an email to the hotel explaining my dietary needs and asked if they would be able to accommodate me. Unbelievably I received a reply from Mr. Louis Ake Sosa, their Food and Beverage Manager. He told me that they actually had Gluten Free menus for each of their restaurants! I was in Celiac Heaven!

We had made note on our reservation that we would be celebrating our anniversary that week so when we arrived we were brought to the Romance Concierge to check-in. Veronique had all our information, including the fact that I was Celiac and would require a special diet. We were introduced to Julio Gonzales, Mr. Sosa's assistant. He informed us that he would be helping me during my stay with meal planning. We arrived early so Julio escorted us to Pelicano's for lunch while our room was being prepared. Pelicano's is located on the beach. It is open air with a view of the docks where the cruise ship tenders arrive. He made sure that Alex, the Captain of Pelicano's, was aware of my dietary needs. The chef came to our table to introduce himself and assure me that he understood GF diets. I had the most delicious salad with a pesto dressing, made especially for me, BBQ chicken with mashed potatoes and chocolate cheesecake with fruit. Amazing! One of the waiters began to put a bread basket down on our table and Captain Alex came running over and moved it to my husband's side. From that moment on I felt very comfortable eating at Pelicano's. Especially when Captain Alex was there.
Julio arrived back to escort us to our room. Champagne and chocolate covered strawberries were waiting for us in our room. The room was gorgeous and immaculate. The view was breathtaking. We looked down on the pool/jacuzzi and out to the ocean. We sat on the balcony with our champagne and relaxed for a while before we dressed for dinner.

THE ROYAL is located just a minutes walk to Fifth Avenue, so we decided to take a walk before dinner. Fifth Ave is a pedestrian only, amazing mix of traditional and modern Mexico. There are small Mexican shops, large European shops, upscale and average restaurants and nightclubs that all pour right out onto the street. The street was packed with people. Mariachis were singing and the most delicious smells were wafting from everywhere. This is one of the things that makes this resort so unique. Most resorts are so secluded that your only choice for evening entertainment is their on property theater.

We had dinner at Maria Marie's the first night there. I was shocked when the hostess brought a GF menu to the table along with a regular menu for my husband. How did she know? The GF choices were interesting and appetizing making it difficult to decide. I chose an appetizer of Mexican Fondue with Shrimp, Caramelized Pineapple and Crispy Corn Tortilla's for dipping which was unbelievably delicious, a Green Salad, with a dressing designed just for me, Lamb Chops with Dijon Mustard and Pesto Mashed Potatoes. They arrived with GF bread and they knew to give me my butter in foil packages where as hubby got a slab. Julio came by with Manuel, Mr. Sosa's other assistant, to check on us and introduced us to the chef. Julio had arranged for GF Flan for dessert. I was completely overwhelmed and delighted to say the least. Another night at Maria Marie's we had Chateau Briand for two, made GF style and Crème Brule for dessert. There were so many other things we could have chosen such as Shrimp, Lamb, Deer, Beef. It was fun to have choices for a change.

One of my favorite parts of an AI Resort is the buffet, especially for breakfast. Most AI's have luxurious buffets with fruit sculptures and enormous amounts of food, so that was what I was expecting. I soon realized that they seem to pride themselves more on their fabulous restaurants than their buffets. THE ROYAL has two small buffet's rather than one large one. Spice is in the main area and El Mediterraneo is in the newer area. They also have a small coffee shop that is reminiscent of one you might find in Seattle, but muffins are definitely not on a GF diet so I stayed clear of there. We chose Spice that morning. I had a great breakfast, although it was a bit difficult to know what was GF and what wasn't, so I chose carefully. The staff at the buffet wasn't as well informed as the restaurant staff had been the day before. I was assured that the grill my eggs were cooked on was only used for eggs and that there was a separate grill for pancakes in another location. Julio appeared out of nowhere to carry my plate to our table and answer any questions. The next day we tried El Mediterraneo, located on the newer part of the property. When Hubby saw that they made his favorite fruit smoothies he was thrilled. We alternated breakfast between El Mediterraneo and Pelicano's from then on. Mostly everything on Pelicano's breakfast menu was GF. They were also very willing to adapt any menu item to GF. They even knew to serve me corn tortillas instead of the usual flour ones.
I do think that they need to improve a bit on their buffets for the GF population. Most of the hot buffet choices were off limits for Celiac's at lunch and dinner. GF labels would be helpful, especially with the language barrier. We did try Spice one evening but the GF choices were so limited that Manuel had the chef prepare my fish out back. It was delicious and thoughtful, but it seemed too much of a bother. Making a fuss and causing a commotion is exactly what Celiac's despise about eating out.

We stuck to the a-la-carte restaurants after that for our evening meals. We also decided to lunch at Pelicano's the rest of the week, where Captain Alex took such care in my meal preparation. Every day they made me something different. One afternoon Julio told me he had a surprise for lunch for me. The chef at Pelicano's had made a GF Pizza and I got to pick the toppings! The pizza was so good that my hubby even enjoyed it with me.
We wanted to experience a dinner at a restaurant on Fifth Avenue so we asked Captain Alex about one in particular. He was so worried that I would be contaminated that he insisted he meet us that evening in the lobby to walk us there. Little did I know that it was his night off. He meticulously explained my GF needs to the waiter and disappeared into the night.

One evening Julio informed us that Mediterraneo's had prepared a special GF meal for me. The first course was Seafood Quiche that was to die for, second course was a Crisp Green Salad surrounded by Fried Cheese Crisps and a Balsamic Reduction Dressing. The main course was perfectly cooked Lamb Chops and Shrimp surrounded by bright colored vegetables. The presentation was perfection. Dessert was an Apple Tart that was a bit too dry. I'm pretty certain it was store bought. I can't fault them for trying. We all know that GF desserts are difficult. I would have been happy with the GF Flan every single evening.

Another evening we had dinner at Asiana. Julio had tried to arrange with his supplier for wheat free soy sauce, but it hadn't arrived yet. He was so apologetic but dinner was delicious even without it. I can imagine it will be even better when they receive it. They are so open to suggestions to accommodate us. They even asked me to send recipes if I had some that I would like to see on their menus.

On Julio's suggestion we started every morning with coffee delivered to our room in the “Magic Box” at 7am sharp. This is one of the things that I loved about THE ROYAL, they anticipate your needs. On our anniversary we decided to have a complete breakfast delivered. Julio called this in to room service the night before, to make sure it was GF. The room service menu didn't look too Celiac friendly so I was happy for him to do it. I was told later that there was a GF room service menu, but I never saw it.
We had Eggs, Bacon, Potatoes, GF Banana and Carrot Muffins, Juice, Coffee. We ate with the slider open to the balcony. A perfect start to our special day.

We had a couples massage in the spa followed by a Temazcal, an Ancient Mayan Ceremony performed in a dome shaped adobe sweat lodge. This ritual is performed by a Mayan Shaman, dressed in white robes, and is often used for anyone celebrating a new beginning in their life. It was an incredible spiritual experience that left us feeling cleansed in both mind and body. Just outside the Temazcal were lounge chairs where we were served fruit and cold beverages.

We went back to the pool to relax a bit and took part in a fun cooking demonstration. They had a canoe filled with ice and one of the chefs was preparing Hawaiian Chicken. Incredibly it was Gluten Free and was a nice light treat to hold us over until dinner along with the daily frozen grapes that Jaime, the pool butler, passed out when he made his rounds with books and suntan lotion, all free by the way. We also had use of a private beach cabana which was great for afternoons when you needed some shade and a nap. “Beachtler” Alex makes sure it's sand free and fresh towels are waiting for you when you arrive.
I had asked Mr. Aki, the Food and Beverage Manager, if it would be possible to see how they prepare my gluten free food without cross-contamination. He was so willing and proud to show me that he arranged a kitchen tour for that afternoon. I have never in my life seen a cleaner kitchen. The cleaning staff does daily deep cleaning on a rotating schedule. They are subject to required inspections by government health agencies and also choose to hire a private inspection agency that travel agents and tour companies recommend. They have received a grade of 98% from these inspections and are very proud, as they should be. Each food type is prepped in individual rooms with plastic drapes separating them from one another, to avoid any cross-contamination. The meat in one room, the seafood in another, pastries and breads in yet another. This kitchen is run with remarkable precision. There is a small room that handles room service orders, which they offer 24 hours a day. Guests with allergies are flagged on a message board and within their computer system so no mistakes are made.

To celebrate our Anniversary we had made reservations at Chef's Plate for that evening. This gourmet restaurant is only available to certain room categories because of it's uniqueness. Each night is a set menu, tonight would be French, my favorite. I was a bit worried about how a set menu would fit into my GF dietary needs, but was assured that they would be aware of my needs and I would have no problems. The first course was Fois Gras, delivered to me without the pastry shell that my husband received. Another course was prepared with a crispy cheese wafer for me instead of a wheat cracker. Course after course was delivered with such beautiful and extravagant presentations that we were in awe the entire evening. This is the kind of dining experience that I have missed since my diagnosis. An entirely relaxed and carefree dinner without having to question anything they brought. They had earned my trust completely. Julio appeared to make sure things were going smoothly and to wish us Happy Anniversary. It is amazing how attentive they are. When my husband went to the room to get my shawl the hostess came to chat with me so I wouldn't be alone. She told me that she had been researching Celiac Disease so she could learn the requirements of a GF diet. It is the little things like this that sometimes go unnoticed, but not with me, it was a very kind gesture.

My husband had arranged with the Romance Concierge for a Romantic Setting in our room on our return. Wow! The bed was adorned with Red Rose Petals and elaborate Towel Swans. The Jacuzzi was filled with bubbles and floating rose petals. The candles were lit and the melting wax tart filled the room with a romantic aroma. Mr. Aki had sent champagne and chocolate strawberries and of course the music was playing softly in the background. This was the most perfect anniversary that we have spent in our entire thirty-eight years together.

We never imagined, in our wildest dreams, that THE ROYAL could outdo Chef's Plate, but they did. On our last evening we decided to splurge a bit and have dinner on the beach. Now we've had dinner on the beach at other resorts and had an idea of what to expect. Wrong!  THE ROYAL has a way of surprising you that can compete with no others. It was a perfect warm evening with a beautiful breeze. There's something about the wind that I have always loved so I was thrilled. We were escorted by Julio and Manuel to what I can only call Paradise. There on the beach, completely alone amongst all the palm trees, the ocean waves just a few feet away, was a torch lit cabana with white flowing drapes and our table for two. After our cocktails were served a violinist appeared from the shadows to play for us. Our own private butler served us our meal. We started with salad and then seafood chowder. The main entree was a combination of swordfish and lamb chops and we ended with delicious gluten free brownies and cappuccino. The presentation of each dish can't be rivaled. This was a meal fit for royalty at THE ROYAL.

As you can imagine we didn't want to leave and were so sad when Sunday arrived. Julio met us in the lobby to say goodbye and surprised us yet again with a GF boxed lunch for the airport. It's like he could read my mind. I had wondered what I might be able to eat while waiting for my flight. THE ROYAL goes so above and beyond in their commitment to helping Celiac's, and others with food allergies, that I will most definitely be returning as soon as I can. Just make sure that you let them know in advance what your specific needs are and they will make sure you too receive THE ROYAL TREATMENT.